Moving to London
where traditional pubs, cutting-edge science, and sky-high rent collide
where traditional pubs, cutting-edge science, and sky-high rent collide
Photo by Fiona Seibold
From June 2021 to August 2022, I had the opportunity to spend a year at Imperial College London (Imperial) as an SNSF Early Postdoc Mobility fellow. After completing my PhD in theoretical physics at ETH Zürich, I was excited to join a new research institute abroad. However, since the UK had recently left the EU, the move came with a few additional challenges. I would like to share some of my experiences – both practical and personal – for anyone considering a similar path.
The first challenge was obtaining a visa to be able to stay in the UK. For me, this was the Tier 5 visa. To apply, I needed a sponsorship letter from Imperial, and had to send in my passport to get a visa stamp. Once in the UK, I had to go collect my biometric residence permit (BRP). I hear some things have changed, and BRPs are now electronic, but at the time it meant a few weeks waiting for my passport to return. The cost was not trivial either – about 300 GBP for the application itself, plus a health surcharge of 1000 GBP per year which needs to be paid upfront for the entire stay. The status of the fellowship with respect to taxes was another thing I had to figure out. At first, I was still registered in Zürich while already on my SNSF fellowship, which meant the money was taxed there as income. On the UK side, I didn’t owe tax on the fellowship, which simplified things.
London housing is expensive. The market, however, is quite fluid, with new flats becoming available every week. Being proactive is key to finding a place: check online listings, call agencies or landlords, and schedule viewings quickly. One challenge I faced was not having UK payslips or landlord references, which made agencies somewhat hesitant. Architecturally, many London neighbourhoods are charming, with their rows of white Victorian houses. While picturesque, many of these buildings are old or in need of renovation, which can make them less comfortable and practical to live in.
On the scientific side, I was very happy. The theoretical Physics Group at Imperial welcomed me warmly as part of the team. My host professor worked with me enthusiastically, helping me grow as a researcher. It was exciting to join a new research environment and to apply my knowledge to fresh problems. The experience also taught me to initiate collaborations and become more versatile in my work. Although I was free from teaching obligations, I still took the opportunity to supervise students and even taught an optional course for master students, which I really enjoyed. One catch: Imperial charged 1000 GBP in overheads each month. This was a significant bite out of the fellowship, but at the time fees could be added to the requested SNSF fellowship amount.
Despite being a huge city, London is a great place for sports and outdoor activities. The city’s green spaces are amazing: Holland Park with its Kyoto Garden, Hyde Park and Regent’s Park all have their own characteristic atmosphere. Just walking through Fulham during the cherry blossom on a sunny day is a lovely experience. Despite London’s reputation, the weather was not that terrible. Sure, a little snow caused complete chaos for a day each winter, and heatwaves in July sometimes stopped trains, but otherwise it was better than I expected. It’s definitely not raining all the time! Outside of housing and University fees, I found London quite affordable. Food, cultural events, and entertainment were often cheap, and there was always something going on. I also really enjoyed the pub culture – something we don’t really have in Switzerland.
When I needed a break from the City, the English countryside didn’t disappoint. My favourite excursion was the Seven Sisters Cliffs walk from Seaford to Eastbourne – 20 kilometres of stunning coastal views. On another trip, I took the ferry from Southampton to the Isle of Wight and hiked from the Needles to Freshwater Bay. The Kent Downs offered another beautiful route from Wye to Folkestone. If I have one regret, it’s that I never made it properly to South West England and Wales – London transport connections are good to big cities but frustrating beyond them.
My SNSF Early Postdoc Mobility fellowship at Imperial College was a stepping stone for my academic career. Afterwards, I stayed in London for two more years with a European Marie Skłodowska-Curie fellowship (which meant switching to the Global Talent Visa; that’s another story), spent several months as a researcher at DESY in Germany, and I’m now a SNSF Ambizione fellow at EPFL. Looking back, my time in London was both challenging and rewarding. Scientifically, it was fantastic; personally, it was unforgettable. It is a pity that the cost of living in London, especially for housing, is quite high with respect to most academic salaries: if it were not for this, I believe that London would be a prime destination for any researcher.